Monday, 25 November 2013

Leaking Tap Advice You Cant Go Past

Tools and materials
The tools and materials you need to change a washer are available from hardware or plumbing supply stores. You will require: adjustable spanner to fit tap nut Valve or tap washer Body washer O-ring Silicon lubricant or Vaseline Needle nose pliers

Method
1. Turn off the water mains: this stops all water flowing into your house. The tap & water meter for homes will probably be out on the street or in your front yard adjacent to the street. If you live in a flat or townhouse the mains tap will probably be inside, for example in the bathroom or a cupboard. Turn on a tap in or around the house to make sure that the water has ceased to run. (If the water has not stopped running, it will be necessary to call a professional plumber). If the mains tap has not been used for many years, you may need a pair of multigrips to help turn it off.  Ensure you need to know where the mains tap is to be able to turn the water off in an emergency. If you are not sure where it is, even if you don't need to change a washer, find out now!

2. Undo the head nut: once the mains water has been turned off, undo the head nut on the leaking tap.

3. Replace the washers: you could just replace the tap washer, but it is a good idea to replace all three washers at the same time. These are: The large washer around the head nut, which is called the body washer (usually orange in colour). It should lift off quite easily. The O-ring on the spindle. To change the O-ring, you need to fully close the tap until the O-ring appears. Then, with a pair of needle nose pliers (or a screwdriver or a sharp knife), prise or cut it off. The new O-ring should easily stretch and roll on to the spindle.
Lastly, replace the tap washer. It may simply slide out of the spindle or stay sitting in the body of the tap, in which case you will need a pair of small pliers to remove the washer.

4. Reassemble: first ensure the spindle and the threaded areas are lubricated with a silicon lubricant or Vaseline.

5. Turn the mains back on: once the tap is reassembled, open it half way and then turn on the mains. When turning the tap off after the washer has been replaced, use gentle finger pressure. Over-tightening will cause a lot of damage to the tap seat. A tap should only be tightened until the water flow stops, no further. (Note: If the tap is still leaking after you have replaced the washer, it means the seat is "pitted" and you will need a plumber to regrind the seat for you.

Further information
Most of inside taps take 12mm (1/2") washers; while outside taps (garden taps) take 3/4" (18mm). Washers cost around $2.00 to $3.00 each. The most popular washer (used by most plumbers) is a heavy-duty washer suitable for hot and cold taps, with a copper base and a yellow top (Delaware valve) – approximately $3.00 each. This same type of washer is good for outside garden taps - 18mm costs approximately $3.00 each.
If your taps are very old, take the worn-out washer to the hardware or plumbers' supply store so that you get the right washer for your tap.

For more information visit an emergency plumber Geelong such as Geelong 24 hour plumbing


Thursday, 21 November 2013

Plumber Geelong

Plumber Geelong

How to Replace Your Hot Water System

This article is for licensed plumbers to refer to. The general public can read this article for interest sake. However, you should not attempt the below.
Step 1: Remove the Old Hot Water System
Before you can install a new hot water system, its pretty logical to remove the old one! Yes, some people don’t remove the old one – but only a very few. With a fire extinguisher close to you, begin shutting off the gas valve with an adjustable open-end wrench. If you are unsure of what an open-end wrench is, best you call a professional plumber. Verify that no gas is leaking by first visually looking at the pilot light, which burns off shortly, and then smelling the area. If you do not detect a gas leak, turn the pilot switch to the “off” position and disconnect the exhaust duct located on top of the tank.
Note: Never ever use a flame to detect a gas leak.

Step 2: Drain the System

Shut off the cold-water “in” valve, and then release the water into the floor drain if one is installed. This makes the heater lighter and much easier to remove and carry.
While waiting for the water to empty, use a large pipe wrench to disconnect the gas line from the heater. To prevent “racking” the gas line, use a second wrench to provide some counter-torque. Once the fitting has been disconnected, double-checks that gas is not escaping.
Additionally, using a pair of large pipe wrenches for counter-torque, disconnect the cold “in” and hot “out” pipes in turn. This action allows more air into the heater, causing the water to drain much faster. Because longer flex pipes will be used for the new connections you will install, temporarily remove the cold-water shutoff valve. Shut off the main water located elsewhere in the household or business. To remove the valve assembly, use a pipe cutter, which scores the pipe in increments until eventually breaking through it. Also use the flex pipe to cut off the old hot “out” connector.
With the valve assembly removed and the water completely drained, it’s out with the old and in with the new hot water heater.

Step 3: Connect the New Segments of Flex Pipe

The first step to preparing the new system for installation is to connect the new segments of flex pipe. Begin by rolling Teflon tape clockwise around the cold “in” and hot “out” connectors on the hot water heater. This creates a good seal for the flex pipe, which you will tighten onto both connectors with the open-end wrench. Take the off the old system from the incoming gas supply.

Step 4: Connect a Water Supply

The first step is to connect the water heater to the water supply you must transition the water valve removed earlier. Burnish the cut ends with an emery cloth to expose fresh copper. To prepare for soldering, brush on a paste flux and twist on carefully a copper union with built-in solder. Continue joining segments of pipe with unions and two new fittings in this way. Once the correct assembly is achieved, solder using a propane torch to apply even heat to each union liquefying the solder to make a water-tight seal.
With the new valve assembly ready to go, roll Teflon tape over the new fitting and counter-torques with open-end wrenches to connect it to the cold-water flex pipe installed earlier in the process. Then solder a new union between the valve assembly and the incoming supply pipe

With the cold water supply connected to the new system, turn your attention to the hot water side. Start by soldering a new fitting to the outgoing pipe that was cut previously. After putting on some Teflon tape, connect the hot flex pipe. You’re now able to fill the heater with cold water. Turn on the main water for the house, and then the cold-water valve. While the water is running, connect the gas flex-line and reattach the duct and draft hood to vent the heater.
Once the water is completely filled, open the gas shut-off valve and ignite the pilot light, set the temperature, and the heater is ready to be utilized

Sunday, 17 November 2013

Hot Water System

Fixing Your Hot Water System

Have you run your bath water only to realise its ice cold? Have you jumped in the shower and been sprayed by cold water? If so, chances are you have a problem with your homes hot water system. Don’t stress, there are a few basic things you can try yourself prior to calling a plumber.  If you have a natural or propane gas water system, chances are the pilot has gone out. The pilot is a small flame that ignites the gas burner on your system. When it goes out, first try relighting it, following the directions on the label, which is often on the front of the system. If the pilot doesn’t relight, or if it goes out right after lighting, by far the most common cause is a broken thermocouple. The good news: you can usually replace a thermocouple for minimal cost and in less than an hour from a local hardware. You’ll get your hot water going without waiting for a pro to show up and save a few dollars!
To replace the thermocouple, be sure to turn off the shutoff valve in the gas line; that is, one quarter turn so that the handle is at a right angle to the pipe. Since working room is tight around the burner, we recommend that you simply unscrew the three nuts at the control valve and pull out the entire burner assembly unit. You’ll see either a slot or clips that hold it in its place. Then either unscrew the thermocouple end or pull it out (depending on the water heater) and take it with you to hardware store to find a match. Position it exactly the same way as the old one. The pilot flame should wrap around the thermocouple bulb.
To reattach the three lines to the gas valve, thread the nuts into place with your fingers and hand-tighten them properly. Then snug them up with a quarter to half revolution with a wrench. The metals are soft, so don’t over tighten as they will break.
Be sure to test for gas leaks. You must have the pilot lit and the burner on for this test so that gas is flowing through the large tube on the system. Reopen the shutoff valve, relight the pilot, then turn the control valve to the “on” position. When the gas burner is on, use a 50/50 dish soap/water mix to test the screw joints for air bubbles that indicate leaks.