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Repair Your Hot Water System

Before any troubleshooting is done, make sure to prepare safely for the job by doing the following:

• Turn off power to an electric water heater system. Do this by turning off the circuit breaker or fuse powering the heater.
• Turn the gas pilot control valve to “pilot” setting.
• Shut off the water supply to the water heater.

Let’s take a look at each problem and what possible causes and repairs exist.

No Hot Water Flow

Possible Causes

• Faulty gas pilot
• Faulty gas thermocouple
• Faulty gas pilot control valve

Possible Repairs

• Check that the gas pilot flame and pilot is operational.
• Re-tighten, reposition or replace the gas thermocouple.
• Replace the gas pilot control valve.

Insufficient Hot Water

Possible Causes

• Hot water system is undersized for water heating demands
• Broken or damaged dip tube allowing cold and hot water to mix in the tank.
• Faulty plumbing installation has crossed cold and hot water connections
• Gas supply or control problems

Possible Repairs

• Make sure the hot water system is not being overtaxed by hot water supply demands. The hot water system should have 75% of its capacity as hot water (e.g., a 40 gallon WH should be used for a demand of 30 gallons).
• Undo the cold-water inlet and pipe nipple and remove dip tube. Check the condition and replace if required.
• Check for crossed connection by turning off the water supply to the hot water system. Open a hot water faucet. If there is water flow, then there is a crossed connection somewhere. Check for a hot water line connected to a cold-water connection on the water heater or appliances such as washer, dishwasher, faucet or shower valves.
• Check for a proper flame from the burner. A natural gas flame should be bright blue with the tip of the flame having just a tinge of yellow. A propane flame should have a bluish green flame with a tinge of yellow at the tip.

Rust Colored Water

Possible Causes

• Corrosion occurring inside glass lined tank
• Sacrificial anode rod is failing (anode rods dissolve slowly to prevent rusting in the tank)

Possible Repairs

• Replace the sacrificial anode rod with magnesium anode rod. Anode rods are available from a plumbing supply house.

Rotten Egg Smell

Possible Causes

• Bacteria in the tank sediment fed from hydrogen gas created from decay of sacrificial anode.

Possible Repairs

• Flush the hot water system using a hydrogen peroxide solution of 2 pints 3% peroxide to 40 gallons of water, treat tank and run some of the solution into water lines.
• Let peroxide solution set in the tank and pipes for 2 hours. The Solution is not toxic and requires no rinsing.
• If the problem persists, replace the anode with a zinc-alloy anode.
• If the problem still remains, replace the hot water system with a plastic lined tank type.

Low Rumbling or Popping Noise

Possible Causes

• Noise heard is the sound of boiling water. Excessive buildup of sediment in bottom of the tank is causing overheating of the tank bottom and boiling of water to occur.

Possible Repairs

Remove sediment by flushing the hot water system

Water Leak Around Base of Heater

Possible Causes

• A faulty T&P (temperature and pressure) relief valve
• The T&P valve leaks due to excessive pressure, overheating or is stuck
• A leak from overhead or nearby plumbing connection
• A leaking water tank (corrosion likely)

Possible Repairs

• Place the bucket under overflow pipe. Open and flush T&P valve clear of debris. If the leak remains from the valve, replace the valve.
• Reduce the thermostat setting to prevent tank overheating and opening T&P relief valve.
• Inspect bottom of the tank by looking through the combustion chamber. If water marks or heavy rusting is noticed or if water is noticed setting in the combustion chamber bottom, then the water heater needs to be replaced.

Get in touch with a professional plumbing business such as Melbourne 24 Hour Plumbing, Mr Plumber Sydney, Mr Plumber Perth Manly Emergency Plumber to service or replace your hot water system.

Blocked Drain Plumber Geelong

Leaking Tap Advice You Cant Go Past

Tools and materials

The tools and materials you need to change a washer are available from hardware or plumbing supply stores. You will require: adjustable spanner to fit tap nut Valve or tap washer Body washer O-ring Silicon lubricant or Vaseline Needle nose pliers

Method

1. Turn off the water mains: this stops all water flowing into your house. The tap & water meter for homes will probably be out on the street or in your front yard adjacent to the street. If you live in a flat or townhouse the mains tap will probably be inside, for example in the bathroom or a cupboard. Turn on a tap in or around the house to make sure that the water has ceased to run. (If the water has not stopped running, it will be necessary to call a professional plumber). If the mains tap has not been used for many years, you may need a pair of multigrips to help turn it off.  Ensure you need to know where the mains tap is to be able to turn the water off in an emergency. If you are not sure where it is, even if you don't need to change a washer, find out now!

2. Undo the head nut: once the mains water has been turned off, undo the head nut on the leaking tap.

3. Replace the washers: you could just replace the tap washer, but it is a good idea to replace all three washers at the same time. These are: The large washer around the head nut, which is called the body washer (usually orange in colour). It should lift off quite easily. The O-ring on the spindle. To change the O-ring, you need to fully close the tap until the O-ring appears. Then, with a pair of needle nose pliers (or a screwdriver or a sharp knife), prise or cut it off. The new O-ring should easily stretch and roll on to the spindle.

Lastly, replace the tap washer. It may simply slide out of the spindle or stay sitting in the body of the tap, in which case you will need a pair of small pliers to remove the washer.

4. Reassemble: first ensure the spindle and the threaded areas are lubricated with a silicon lubricant or Vaseline.

5. Turn the mains back on: once the tap is reassembled, open it half way and then turn on the mains. When turning the tap off after the washer has been replaced, use gentle finger pressure. Over-tightening will cause a lot of damage to the tap seat. A tap should only be tightened until the water flow stops, no further. (Note: If the tap is still leaking after you have replaced the washer, it means the seat is "pitted" and you will need a plumber to regrind the seat for you.

Further information

Most of inside taps take 12mm (1/2") washers; while outside taps (garden taps) take 3/4" (18mm). Washers cost around $2.00 to $3.00 each. The most popular washer (used by most plumbers) is a heavy-duty washer suitable for hot and cold taps, with a copper base and a yellow top (Delaware valve) – approximately $3.00 each. This same type of washer is good for outside garden taps - 18mm costs approximately $3.00 each.

If your taps are very old, take the worn-out washer to the hardware or plumbers' supply store so that you get the right washer for your tap.

For more information visit an emergency plumber Geelong such as Geelong 24 hour plumbing

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